Kuchinja Kwefashoni
ZVISINEI nokuti tinozviziva here kana kwete, zvisarudzo zvatinoita zuva nezuva pakuti tichapfekei pamwero wakati zvinodzorwa nefashoni. Pakupedzisira, simba refashoni ndiro rinosarudza zvinhu zvokutenga zviripo.
Kunyange zvipfeko zvatisisina basa nazvo iko zvino zvaimbovawo mufashoni. Somuenzaniso, hembe yomurume netai, zvakambova fashoni yakakurumbira kwazvo makore anodarika zana apfuura. Uye juzi romukadzi rakapinda mufashoni kare muma1920.
Kuda fashoni kunonyanya kukonzerwa nezvinhu zviviri—kuda zvitsva uye kuda kufanana nevamwe. Anenge munhu wose anoda kupfeka chinhu chitsva. Ndosaka dzimwe nguva tichitenga zvipfeko, kwete kuti dzekare dzinenge dzasakara, asi kuti tinoda kuchinja. Panguva imwe chete, hatidi kutaridzika setisingakodzeri, saka pamwero wakati tinotenga zvipfeko zvinoenderana nezvevamwe vedu. Mumazana emakore ose aya vagadziri vezvipfeko vakagutsa—uye dzimwe nguva vakashandisa noudyire—zvido izvi zvokuva nezvitsva uye kufanana nevamwe.
Nhoroondo Pfupi
Kuti vagadzire chipfeko chorudzi rwakati, vagadziri vanoshandisa zvinhu zvikuru zvishanu: ruvara, mataridzikire, zvinoita chipfeko chikapfekwa nemaunyaniro acho, mhando yejira, masonerwo acho (kana kuti mapatani ejira racho). Zvitayera zvakasiyana-siyana zvinogona kuitwa nevagadziri vezvipfeko nevanosona zvakawedzera mumakore adarika pazvinhu zvishanu izvi zvose. Somuenzaniso, muIjipiti yekare, chipfeko cherineni chinoonekera chaigadzirwa imomo chaionekwa sechemberi, uye chaiva chakanaka munzvimbo inopisa. Asi sezvo rineni yaisagona kudhayiwa nyore nyore, chipfeko chacho chaiwanzova noruvara rumwe chete—ruchena rwakadhayiwa. Kunyange zvakadaro, vaigadzira fashoni muIjipiti vaigadzira mamino pajira racho zvokuti zvipfeko zvavo zvaibva zvataridzika zvakanaka zvapfekwa. Ndiko kuvapo kwakaita zvimwe zvezvitayera zvagara kwazvo pane zviri munyika.
Pakazosvika zana rokutanga remakore C.E., machira matsva nemavara zvakanga zvavapo. Vapfumi vomuRoma vaitenga siriki kuChina neIndia, kunyange zvazvo mari yokufambisa yaiita kuti machira esiriki adhure sendarama. Chimwewo chipfeko chaiva mufashoni chaiva chewuru yakadhayiwa yokuTire, paundi roga raiita madhinari 1 000—muripo unowanika pashure pemakore matatu nomushandiwo zvake. Dhayi nezvinhu zvitsva zvakagonesa vakadzi veRoma vakapfuma kupfeka stola—chipfeko chirefu chokunze—chejira rebhuruu chaibva kuIndia kana kuti zvichida chesiriki yeyero yaibva kuChina.
Kunyange zvazvo zvitayera zvitsva zvakawedzera kuvapo nguva nenguva, mumakore akare chipfeko chinodhura chaigona kugara mufashoni kwoupenyu hwose. Kuchinja kwakavapo zvishoma nezvishoma uye kazhinji kuchingoitika kuvapfumi voga. Zvisinei, nokuvapo kwemaindasitiri, fashoni yakavawo nesimba pavanhuwo zvavo.
Muzana remakore rechi19, maindasitiri makuru akavapo aigadzira zvipfeko zvose zvevapfumi nevarombo. Machira akagadzirwa nemichini uye michini yewuru zvakawedzera, uye mitengo yemachira yakadzikira. Michini yokusona zvayakange yavapo, zvipfeko zvaigona kugadzirwa nenzira isingadhuri, uye dhayi itsva dzakaita kuti pave nemavara akawanda kwazvo.
Kuchinja kwenzanga uye kwesayenzi kwakaita basa guru pakuti vanhu vave nezvipfeko. KuWestern Europe uye kuNorth America, vanhu vaiva nemari yakawanda yokushandisa. Muma1850, magazini evakadzi akavapo, uye nenguva isipi zvitoro zvikuru zvakatanga kutengesa zvipfeko zvainge zvangomirira kupfekwa zvaiva nemasaizi akakodzera. Uyewo muzana remakore rechi19, Charles Frederick Worth akatanga mashoo efashoni, achishandisa vanhu chaivo kuitira kuti vatengi vaitarisirwa vanyanye kufarira.
Muzana remakore rechi20, machira matsva, akadai serayon, nylon, uye polyester, akagonesa vagadziri kushandisa machira akasiyana-siyana. Zvitayera zvaigadzirwa nekombiyuta zvakaita kuti zvive nyore kugadzira zvitayera zvitsva, uye pamusana pokutengeserana kwomunyika yose, mafashoni matsva aikwanisa kuoneka panguva imwe chete mumigwagwa yeTokyo, New York, Paris, uye São Paulo. Panguva iyiwo, vagadziri vakanga vawana nzira itsva dzokusimudzira nadzo zvigadzirwa zvavo.
Nhasi vanhu vaduku ndivo vakatsiva vapfumi sezvo vava kuda kwazvo fashoni. Mwedzi woga woga, mamiriyoni avo anotenga zvipfeko zvitsva, uye vezvokutengeserana vanowana mabhiriyoni emadhora anobva muzvipfeko pagore.a Asi pane misungo yakavanzika here?
[Mashoko Omuzasi]
a Rimwe gore richangodarika, ukoshi hwezvipfeko zvakagadzirwa hwakafungidzirwa kuva mabhiriyoni $335 okuUnited States (Z$276 040 000 000 000).
[Bhokisi/Mifananidzo iri papeji 4, 5]
Vanoita Kuti Fashoni Ikurumbire
Kwemazana emakore madzimambo nevapfumi vairatidza zvinofanira kupfekwa. Muzana remakore rechi17, Mambo Louis XIII weFrance akasarudza kupfeka wigi kuti avhare mhanza yake. Nenguva isipi, vapfumi vokuEurope vakanga voveura misoro yavo nokupfeka wigi—fashoni yakagara nguva inodarika makore zana.
Muzana remakore rechi19, magazini evakadzi akasimudzira fashoni uye akatopa mapatani asingadhuri kuitira kuti vakadzi vakwanise kugadzira zvipfeko zvavo pachavo. Muzana remakore rechi20, mafirimu nematerevhizheni zvazvakakurumbira, nyanzvi dzezvakasiyana-siyana dzakanamatwa munyika yose uye zvipfeko zvadzo zvakava fashoni. Vaimbi vakakurumbira vakashandisawo zvipfeko zvemaoresa, zvakatevedzerwa nokukurumidza nevaduku vakawanda. Nhasi, hazvina kumbonyanya kusiyana, sezvo vashambadzi vachishandisa nokubudirira mashoo emafashoni, magazini anokwezva, zvikwangwani zvokushambadzira, mahwindo ezvitoro, uye kushambadzira kweterevhizheni kuitira kuti vanhu vade zvipfeko zvitsva.
[Mufananidzo]
Mambo Louis XIII
[Kwazvakatorwa]
Kubva mubhuku rinonzi The Historian’s History of the World
[Mufananidzo uri papeji 4]
Chipfeko ichi cherineni chokuIjipiti yekare chaiva imwe yefashoni yakagara kwazvo munyika
[Kwazvakatorwa]
Mufananidzo wakatorwa nokubvumira kweBritish Museum
[Mufananidzo uri papeji 4]
MuRoma yekare vakadzi vaipfeka “stola”
[Kwazvakatorwa]
Kubva mubhuku rinonzi Historia del Traje, 1917
[Mufananidzo uri papeji 4, 5]
Nguo ye“kimono” yaramba iripo kubvira munenge muna 650 C.E.
[Kwazvakatorwa]
Kubva mupepanhau rinonzi La Ilustración Artística, Volume X, 1891
[Mufananidzo uri papeji 5]
Mumakore ekare chipfeko chinodhura chingangove chaikwanisa kuva mufashoni kwoupenyu hwose
[Kwazvakatorwa]
EclectiCollections
[Mufananidzo uri papeji 5]
Kuvapo kwemaindasitiri kwakaita kuti zvive nyore kuvanhuwo zvavo kuda fashoni
[Kwazvakatorwa]
EclectiCollections