Ukudaya Izindwangu Ezikhathini Zasendulo Nezanamuhla

NGUMLOBELI WE-PHAPHAMA! EBRITHANI

WAKE wabona ukuthi imibala isithinta kanjani ngokomzwelo? Akumangalisi ukuthi kuwo wonke umlando abantu baye bakhetha ukunezela imibala ezindwangwini zabo, besebenzisa inqubo okuthiwa ukudaya.

Lapho sithenga izingubo zokugqoka nezinto zokuhlobisa noma izinto lokhu okwenziwa ngazo, asifuni ukuba imibala iphume noma iphuphe. Ukuze sizwe ukuthi iziphi izinqubo ezisetshenziswayo ukuze imibala yezindwangu ingaphumi nokuthi zavela kanjani izindlela ezivamile zokudaya, savakashela iSDC Colour Museum eBradford, enyakatho yeNgilandi.a Lapho, sabona amasampula ezinye zezinto ezingavamile eziye zasetshenziswa njengodayi amakhulu eminyaka.

Odayi Ababesetshenziswa Kudala

Izinto ezazisetshenziswa ekudayeni indwangu zazenziwa ngezinto zemvelo kuphela, njengezimila, izinambuzane nezimbaza, kwaze kwaba sengxenyeni yesibili yekhulu le-19. Ngokwesibonelo, isimila i-woad sasikhiqiza udayi oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka (1), i-weld ikhiqiza ophuzi (2), kanti i-madder yayikhiqiza udayi obomvu. Udayi omnyama wawenziwa ngesihlahla i-logwood, kanti ulele okuthiwa i-archil lwalukhiqiza udayi onsomi. Imbaza i-murex yayikhiqiza udayi obizayo onsomi, owaziwa ngokuthi umbala onsomi waseThire noma wasebukhosini (3). Lo dayi wawusetshenziselwa ukudaya izingubo zababusi baseRoma.

Esikhathini eside ngaphambi kokuba kubuse ababusi baseRoma, izicukuthwane nezicebi zazigqoka izingubo ezidaywe ngezinto ezingokwemvelo. (Esteri 8:15) Ngokwesibonelo, odayi ababomvu babenziwa ngesinambuzane i-kermes esiyinsikazi (4). Kubonakala sengathi lesi sinambuzane yiso esasikhiqiza udayi obomvu ngokunsomi owasetshenziswa ekuhlobiseni itabernakele lakwa-Israyeli wasendulo, kanye nasekudayeni izingubo zompristi omkhulu kwa-Israyeli.—Eksodusi 28:5; 36:8.

Inqubo Yokudaya

Imibukiso yaseColour Museum ibonisa ukuthi izinqubo eziningi zokudaya ziyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu kunokumane nje kufakwe indwangu kudayi. Ezimweni eziningi kunesigaba senqubo yokudaya esihilela ukusebenzisa ikhemikhali eyenza indwangu imunce udayi. Ngokusebenzisa le khemikhali, indwangu imunca udayi ukuze umbala ungaphumi lapho ifakwa emanzini. Kunamakhemikhali amaningi asetshenziswa ngale ndlela, amanye okuyingozi ukuwathinta ngesandla.

Ezinye izinqubo zokudaya zikhipha iphunga elibi. Enye yazo inqubo ende futhi eyinkimbinkimbi eyayisetshenziselwa ukukhipha umbala obomvu okuthiwa i-Turkey red. Le nqubo kwakudaywa ngayo ukotini futhi yayikhipha umbala obomvu ngokugqamile owawungaphuphi lapho uselangeni, uwashwa noma ufakwa kuyi-bleach. Ngaphambili le nqubo yayinezigaba ezihlukahlukene ezingu-38 futhi kuthatha izinyanga ezine ukuyiqeda! Ezinye zezingubo zokugqoka ezinhle kakhulu okubukiswe ngazo kulo mnyuziyamu zadaywa ngalo mbala obomvu (5).

Ukufika Kukadayi Wokwenziwa

Kuthiwa udayi wokuqala owawungenziwanga ngezinto zemvelo wenziwa uWilliam Henry Perkin ngo-1856. Kunombukiso ochaza indlela uPerkin awuthola ngayo umbala onsomi ngokugqamile (mauve). Ekupheleni kwekhulu le-19, kwase kwenziwe abanye odayi abaningi abanemibala egqamile. Namuhla, kwenziwa izinhlobo ezingaphezu kuka-8 000 zodayi bokwenziwa (6). Okuwukuphela kwezinto ezingokwemvelo ezisasetshenziswa njalo i-logwood ne-cochineal.

Umbukiso iColour and Textiles Gallery waseColour Museum uchaza izinqubo ezikhethekile ezidingekayo namuhla ukuze kudaywe izindwangu zokwenziwa, njenge-rayon. I-viscose rayon, okuwuhlobo lwe-rayon oluthandwa kakhulu olusetshenziswa manje, yaqala ukukhiqizwa kwezentengiselwano ngo-1905. Njengoba i-viscose rayon ithi ayifane nokotini, odayi abaningi bangaleso sikhathi babesebenza kuyo. Nokho, kwadingeka ukuba kwenziwe izinhlobo eziningana zodayi bokwenziwa ukuze kudaywe izindwangu zamuva nje zokwenziwa njenge-acetate rayon, i-polyester, inayiloni nezindwangu ze-acrylic.

Inselele Yokwenza Umbala Ongaphumi

Lapho sithenga izingubo noma izindwangu, sifuna ukuba umbala ungaphumi. Nokho, eziningi ziyaphupha lapho ziselangeni noma lapho ziwashwa kaningi, ikakhulukazi uma kusetshenziswa izinto zokususa amabala. Ngezinye izikhathi izindwangu zingaphupha ngenxa yomjuluko noma zishintshe umbala lapho ziwashwa nezinye izingubo. Ukungaphumi kombala lapho ziwashwa kuxhomeke ekutheni indwangu iwumunca kangakanani udayi. Ukuwashwa kaningi kanye namandla ensipho eyenzelwe ukususa amabala kwenza udayi uphume endwangwini, bese umbala uyaphuma. Abenzi bodayi bayayihlola imikhiqizo yabo ukuze babone ukuthi ilanga, ukuwashwa, insipho nomjuluko kunethonya elisezingeni elifanele yini.

Ukuvakashela kwethu kule ndawo kwasikhuthaza ukuba siqaphele kakhudlwana ukuthi izingubo zethu zokugqoka zenziwe ngendwangu enjani. Kodwa ngaphezu kwalokho, sathola ulwazi ngezinqubo ezenziwe ngokuhlakanipha eziye zasetshenziswa ekwenzeni ukuba izingubo zethu zingaphumi umbala nakuba ziwashwa njalo.

[Umbhalo waphansi]

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Photos 1-4: Courtesy of the Colour Museum, Bradford (www.colour-experience.org)

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Photo 5: Courtesy of the Colour Museum, Bradford (www.colour-experience.org); Photo 6: Clariant International Ltd., Switzerland